Mmm...Mmm...Not Good!

Another sign the four horsemen are on their way: Campbell's condensed soup in Italian grocery stores. The only flavors available were tomato, cream of mushroom and cream of lobster. But you really have to want the convenience--each can cost about 3 euros ($4.50)!

No Change

Today at Esselunga, I hit the lunch rush by accident. While I was tapping my foot and trying to block the occasional cutter attempting to wedge a plastic basket into what passes for a line here, they opened a new "cassa," or checkstand.

And no one moved. For the first time, the store opened a line exclusively for Bancomat and credit cards. Normally, given how much Italians HATE to stand in line (too much of that at government offices), the octogenarians would surge en masse to be first. But still, no one moved. "E Italia," one of the other checkers said, under his breath. Like, "You're insane. What did you think would happen?"

So I moved.

Italy still operates on cash. Most credit cards are prepaid or of the American Express variety--capped and paid off every six weeks. Very few carry a balance here.

As a result, getting change becomes a bit tricky. Shop owners repeatedly ask for exact change, or "un eurino." A few weeks ago, the grocery store checker made change by asking the next person in line for varying denominations. When he got to me, I helped with the 10 I had in my purse. But when he realized I was paying with a card, he couldn't figure out how to add the 10-euro credit on. I ended up being trundled off to a new checkstand where the manager punched in the secret code.

All I can figure is that the E.U. treasury is printing only 50s and 100s for Italy...

Free Rent

They call it Chiantishire for a reason. Tuscany has been picked over for decades--first by the Germans, then by the British and now by the Americans--driving up real estate prices and creating a new moneyed class of natives who loll about Florence during the winter and their "country" homes in the summer.

But there's one place either too remote or simply undiscovered that seems to have missed the memo: The hilltop town of Pari (near Montalcino) is essentially begging people to live the dream under their Tuscan sun. According to The Florentine, the town's population has declined from 1,000 in 1945 to 200 today. To combat the decline, town leaders are offering free rent to employed parents with at least one child and plans to stay. Using the proceeds from the annual sausage festival, the town has prepared 13 homes to rent.

In a region where a small county villa runs about 5,000 euros a month (and a slice of villa in Florence is 4,000 euros a month), that's a bargain! To bask for a moment: http://www.parionline.it/.

Buon Natale!

Babbo Natale Sighting

I compromised on my real beard policy this year...

For the Italian kids, this was just a photo op with the equivalent of a cardboard cutout. The Epiphany and La Befana still are much more significant.

But for Jack, this Italian Santa was serious business. He even checked out the mailbox to make sure his letter would get to the REAL Santa.

Frosted Firenze

Florence was pounded by 7 to 12 inches of snow yesterday. The soccer game was cancelled. Cars were at a standstill on the highway. A train was stuck in Livorno for 7 hours.

Still, that didn't stop Utah-hardened Jack from making the most of it. He pulled on his Size 5 snow pants (six inches of leg showing) and plowed in.

Unfortunately, this snow is a week early and isn't likely to last for a white Christmas...

Family Values

Like the family decals plastered on minivans and suburbans throughout Utah (you know, where you get to see a stick figure for each of the six kids plus the dog...), these "bimbo a bordo"stickers are ubiquitous in Tuscany.

Conveniently shaped like a street sign, some even include the baby's name for a personal jolt of guilt.

It all seems to be a vain effort by new parents to get their fellow Italians to drive a little more slowly. Or break with genetics and stop tailgating....