After trudging with the masses through the Uffizi, the Accademia and the Duomo, I'm starting to appreciate the lesser-visited sites.
The great Renaissance painters liberally sprinkled their work throughout abbeys and monasteries and cloisters around Tuscany. And, with fewer tourists and less artwork crammed in the space, you can really appreciate what's in front of you.
Lately, I've been on a "Last Supper" tour. In the eating halls of these abbeys and monasteries and cloisters, the practice was to depict Christ and the Apostles in plaster. It's so common, Cenacolo has become synonymous with the Last Supper. The one above, by Ghirlandaio, is in Ognissanti, our neighborhood church. Da Vinci reportedly borrowed liberally from the earlier painting for his more famous rendition in Milano.
Even better: Admission to most of the Cenacolos is free.
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