As we get closer to Carnevale, a few errant fireworks go off in the middle of the night. There are little sprays of confetti around town. And the fritters are on sale in the pasticcerias. Little squares of buttery dough cut with scalloped edges and fried, the pastries are supposed to look like rags, or, alternatively, lettuce leaves....
In Lombardy, they're called Chiacchere, in Rome, Frappe, and here in Tuscany, Cenci.
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