Les Baguettes

Like the Cote, I figured all the blather about French bread was just that. But not so!

Our Italian grocery store, Esselunga, imports the dough it bakes in waves every day from France. And, don't get me wrong, those baguettes are a relief from unsalted Pane Toscano.

But they're nothing compared to the bread the French carry like kindling under their arms. The bread stores have it down to a science with something like a vending machine: plug your money in and pull out a hot baguette.

Something about that crust and the size of the holes in the middle. Slap some mozarella and tomato inside and it's heaven. Zero condiments required.

No wonder you find half-eaten stumps tucked away on window sills and steps throughout the south of France. Lunch doesn't require much more....